Never before have I experienced a day quite like Dia de Los Muertos. In the week preceding November 2, I asked several people, "What happens on Dia de Los Muertos?" "People visit the cemetery." Simple Enough. As it turns out, the whole week leading to Nov. 2 was one of preparation for this very important holiday. Local residents visited the cemetery prior to the holiday to repaint and decorate their family mausoleums. They also prepared a fruit drink called Collada Morada, which they took with a special type of bread called Guaguas de Pan. Fiestas sprung throughout the town and people traveled in all directions to visit the cities and pueblos of their deceased loved ones. I had already taken great interest in the cemetery when I arrived in Baños four months ago. On two occasions I spent an hour of solitude, strolling the streets and photographing the above-ground tombs. Completely absorbed by the intricate displays and "neighborhood-like" atmosphere, I realized that this sacred